Unassuming churches hiding unexpected treasures in the form of wall paintings. Their rarity nearly escaped the notice of locals and visitors alike. They survived for centuries under a coat of white paint, and even the bombing of one of the churches. Discover precious frescoes that Italy itself might envy …
Points of Interest
- Church of St. James the Apostle in Želiezovce
- Church of St. Nicholas in Sazdice
Church of St. James, Želiezovce
The original church in Želiezovce was built in Gothic style in the 14th century and was decorated with 14 frescoes. It later came under the administration of the Reformed Church, and the frescoes were painted over with white lime and nearly forgotten. Three of the frescoes were only discovered during the church’s reconstruction in 1884, in the area of the presbytery. Of particular interest is one titled “The Special Judgment of Juraj Vesszös Bescei,” which depicts events from the life of an ordinary person rather than a saint. Fragments of smaller frescoes have also survived in other parts of the church. At the end of World War II the church came under heavy shelling, and the retreating troops blew up its tower. After the devastating explosion, the presbytery, with its Gothic cross vault and frescoes, miraculously survived intact. The nave of the church was rebuilt after the war. The base of the main altar is formed by a remarkable 2nd-century Roman sarcophagus.
The town’s ancient history is tied to the aristocratic Esterházy family and famous names such as Franz Schubert and Franz Sacher. The Pohronská Cycling Magistrale can also lead you to these historic gems …
Church of St. Nicholas, Sazdice
In the middle of the village, a medieval little church rises on a hilltop. The first mention of it dates from May 28, 1414, dedicated to St. Nicholas – patron saint of merchants, travelers, and pilgrims. Yet the church is evidently older. To this day it has retained its original medieval form, barely touched by later renovations.
For a time, the Catholic church also found itself in the hands of the Protestant church, though it made little change to its interior decoration. The unique frescoes were covered with white paint and remained “preserved and hidden” from the outside world for centuries. Their rediscovery is linked to the church’s reconstruction at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, though detailed research and restoration only took place after 2000.
The fresco decoration in the presbytery probably depicted the 12 apostles; the figures of four of them have survived in complete form. Fragments of frescoes can also be seen in other parts of the church, depicting scenes from Scripture and the lives of saints.
Although the Church of St. Nicholas is a truly unexpected treasure, it isn’t the only rarity you’ll find in the village. The street below it is a protected heritage zone. It also includes a courtyard with two original buildings, which today house the Village Museum.
Of particular interest is a collection of more than four hundred dolls, gathered over her lifetime by a local native, schoolteacher Mrs. Gazdagová. Besides these, her collection also includes embroidered linen wall decorations and antique buttons. To visit the Village Museum or the collection, you need to arrange a date in advance through the village office.
Finally, one more curiosity – a sculpture dedicated to the phenomenal Rubik’s Cube. When the beloved toy celebrated its fiftieth anniversary, members of the Evangelical church were commemorating the 500th anniversary of the Reformation. In Sazdice, they decided to combine both events, and so today, at the lower end of the village, stands a memorial to two unconventionally linked occasions.
But you can discover all of this for yourself. Just wander into Želiezovce and Sazdice …
